As an animal lover, it has been tough traveling in southeast Asia. Sad stray dogs and cats run rampant everywhere, and even in touristed Bali, the cacophony of cockfights can pierce a peaceful evening. It breaks my heart constantly. So I was determined to plan my trip around some volunteering at animal sanctuaries—I wanted to …
I’ve spent a fair bit of time puzzling over why people have such a positive mental image of Bali. Before my trip, if I mentioned my plans to visit Indonesia to anyone, I received mostly indifferent looks. Say the word “Bali,” though, and it’s a different story. Bali evokes paradise. But why? It’s one of …
I don’t quite remember how I found out about Mount Ijen on the island of Java, but I do remember that as soon as I saw the pictures of its turquoise crater and electric blue flames, I knew I had to go. It’s more or less the reason I came to Banyuwangi in the first …
Indonesia started with a whirlwind of transit. I flew direct from Tokyo to Jakarta, overnighted in the airport hotel there, then navigated the crazy Jakarta airport to fly again to Surabaya, a mid-size but overwhelming city. Jakarta and Surabaya were both assaults on the senses, masses of people, sights, sounds, and smells. I was lucky …
In my short stay in Japan, I was determined to do something traditional as well as something quirky and offbeat. When I think about Japan, this is what I envision: A storied past with specific observed traditions, and funky fashions and social gatherings. My Airbnb host Cheeko came up with the traditional part for me …
Tokyo is a pretty safe city, so I’ve felt comfortable wandering around without much of a plan. I’m trying hard to adapt to the local customs, and the biggest challenges for me so far have been as follows: Walking on the left side of the street. I’m immediately sorry for all the glares I’ve given …
The typhoon wasn’t part of my plan. Everything leading up to my grand tour had been practically prophetic, signs that i was making the right decision to leave my job, friends, and family, and backpack around Asia. My favorite yoga studio closing. “Leaving on a Jetplane” playing in the cafe on my last day of …