The Cat Lady Abroad: Bangkok Bound
I had trouble figuring out how much time to allot for Bangkok. Hitting Thailand’s capital just before leaving Asia was unusual; most travelers end up there closer to the beginning of their trips, since it is such a major hub for flights. And indeed, I had passed through a couple of times on connecting flights to and from Cambodia, but hadn’t yet explored the city. I was conflicted: I generally love big cities, but would Bangkok be more like Tokyo and Singapore, glittering Asian metropolises with fantastic food and space age skylines, or like Hanoi and Phnom Penh, teeming with poverty, people, and traffic? Most of the travelers I had met weren’t big fans of Bangkok, and since I was coming from the islands, I was hesitant to plan for too much time in the city, lest I arrive and wish I hadn’t left paradise. I was also pretty templed out at this point, so some of Bangkok’s big highlights like the Temple of the Emerald Buddha were of no interest to me. I settled on three nights, figuring if I hated the city, that wouldn’t be too much time to regret.
Big mistake. Bangkok is ballin.
I landed at Don Mueang International Airport and bypassed the sprawling taxi lines to board the A1 bus, which took me to a Skytrain stop. I was already blissing out on Bangkok’s public transportation: I adore subway and monorail systems, for their affordability, ease of use, and fixed prices (can you tell I was tired of haggling with tuktuk drivers by now?)
I checked into Home Mali Hostel, which was one of the best accommodation decisions I have made in Asia (and I have made mostly good ones.) I didn’t stay in too many dorm hostels on this trip because I had budgeted a bit more for private rooms. But when I did choose hostels, I found that I really didn’t mind sleeping in a room with strangers, and the atmosphere was always great for meeting people. So at the last minute I booked Mali Hostel and I am so glad I did! It is run by Krit and Bua, the coolest Thai couple with a seriously adorable toddler. I am not a huge fan of kids, so trust me when I say little Mali is a total treat to be around. Krit and Bua used to live in NYC, where they ran a Thai restaurant, so we bonded instantly, and they could not have been more helpful in giving me directions, helping with taxis, and giving general advice on the area. Bua’s mom is also usually around, and although she doesn’t speak much English and my Thai is terrible, we had lovely conversations facilitated by lots of hand gestures. I was only there for a scant few days, but I left feeling like I had made true friends in Bangkok.
If you have been following my blog, it is no secret that I have been seeking out cat cafes and rescues on my travels. But in Bangkok, one came to me! Imagine my surprise when, on my way to the hostel, I walked past Caturday Cat Cafe! Forget drinks and dancing out on the town, here was my Friday night.
Unlike most of the other cat cafes I have visited, Caturday is not rescue affiliated, meaning the cats are purebred and not up for adoption.
So this is kind of a bummer, but it was still pretty cool to see all the different breeds, most of which I had never seen in person.
I can also attest that the Caturday staff took excellent care of the cats and ensured that visitors were calm and not aggressive with any of them. And the treats are top notch: I enjoyed a tasty Thai tea crepe cake.
While I was petting a surly Persian, a young Thai girl sat down next to me and shyly said hello. Like most people I meet on the road, she was curious about me: where I was from, why I was alone. Her name was Best and she was visiting the cafe with her brother. Her words and mature manner led me to believe that she was in her early 20s, but when I asked what she did for work, she smiled and said, ”I’m in school…I’m just 14.” I learned that her family had recently moved to Bangkok from a rural province so she could have better access to English education, and that she hoped to become a teacher or a photographer someday. She gave me tips on street food stalls nearby and I showed her pictures of New York City. When Best and her brother left, she advised me to be safe on my walk home. I tend to bristle when most people tell me to be safe: I know it comes from a place of concern, but of course I am going to be safe (or try my best to be, anyway!) Somehow, though, having the caution come from this 14 year old stranger felt warm and welcome. I had only been in Bangkok for a few hours, but I was already having the Best time.